How to Quickly Replace A Cars Piston Rings (In 8 Hours)

This post will provide an in depth walk through on how to identify, remove, inspect, and replace, worn or damaged piston rings, no matter the car that you’re working on.

The car featured in this post is my 2014 Mazda Cx-5 SkyActive 2.2 Diesel.

To give context, the car has just crossed 92k miles, and had frequent oil changes in accordance with Mazdas recommended service intervals.

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Questions To Ask (Before Carrying Out This Repair)

Being honest, this job is not for the faint hearted.

It’s costly, its extensive, and its tiresome. But it’s totally possible if you follow the steps in this guide.

That being said, there are certainly a few questions to ask before starting this repair.

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“A mechanic has no use without his tools”

A simple statement that carries a high level of truth.

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Tools That You will Need

The following sections have been split into 3 categories:

• Basic tools
• Specialised tools
• Non-essential tools

We then get into;

• Replacement parts
• Engine oils, and engine fluids

But before picking up tools, you should first get your hands on a copy of the vehicles service repair manual. This will provide you with the exact torque settings, engine layout, and wiring diagrams needed for the repair.

The most accurate and trusted place I’ve used in the past is Haynes service repair manuals. Each manual contains technical information, engine specifications, and maximum tolerances for various makes and models.

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8 Steps To Remove Piston Rings On A Car Engine

Well done! You made it.

You should now have the parts, tools and technical information to begin removing the pistons.

I’ll do my best to keep it simple. But note that; the steps in this guide can look slightly different for various types of engines.

* PLEASE READ * Create a checklist of the actions to take and check them off once completed. Trust me! This will also dramatically help you when reassembling the engine too.

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Cleaning the Engine And It’s Associated Components

A thorough clean of the engine and it’s associated engine components must be carried out to allow for an accurate inspection.

Use the degreasing solution combined with a non abrasive brush to clean each of the pistons, cylinder head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, camshafts, and all other engine components.

To tackle stubborn deposits, you can additionally use brake or carb cleaner, a rotary wire brush, and a brass or plastic scraper.

Once the grime is removed, rinse the components with water, then immediately dry and wipe down with automatic transmission oil, to prevent rust.

With everything clean, its now time to begin inspecting.

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Testing The Cylinder Head For Flatness

The following tools are required in this section:

• Feeler Gauge
• Mechanics machined straight edge
• Notepad (or notes app on mobile)

Please Note: Testing must be through and exact. Simply put. At this stage, there is no room for error.

Familiarise yourself with using the tools by placing the straight edge on the flat engine surface, and testing varying sizes of the feeler gauge in the gap.

If the feeler gauge passes through (between the straight edge and surface area), then test has failed, by at least the extent of the size that has been selected on the feeler gauge.

As shown in the following image.

Checks must be carried out and recorded by following a specific “warpage check pattern”.

This pattern consists of vertical, horizontal and diagonal checks as shown in the following example (for a 4 cylinder engine).

Example Tolerances In engine Warp

The next section will provide examples of typical tolerances you can expect to see for some of the current most popular selling cars.

Testing The engine block For Warpage

The key difference in testing the engine block vs testing the cylinder head, is down to the fact that the engine block contains cylindrical bores.

Inside each cylinder bore is additionally where combustion takes place, with temperatures reaching up to 2,500°F (1,370°C). This results in the area being more prone to warpage than anywhere else on the engine. 

As most piston ring replacements can be carried out with the engine block inside the engine bay. It’s important to consider a straight edge that is; long enough to measure the block, but also short enough to fit in the engine bay.  

What Can you do if the Engine is warped?

Discovering an engine is warped is both gut wrenching, and disappointing. The two options that remain is to repair the engine, or replace the engine.

Repairing the engine involves restoring the flatness using a method called ‘resurfacing’.

However, resurfacing is only viable if the engines warpage has not exceeded the maximum tolerances set by the manufacturer.

Meaning, you must first cross reference your measurements with the manufacturers corresponding information, in order to decide on the best course of action.

How much Material Can Be removed when resurfacing the Engine?

The amount of material that can be removed when skimming an engine is determined by the maximum length that the piston travels to reach top dead centre (i.e., TDC).

The table below contains typical specifications you can expect to find for some of the most popular selling cars:

Make & Model	Engine Type	Max Skim (Cylinder Head)	Max Skim (Engine Block)	Notes
Ford Puma	1.0L EcoBoost	0.2mm / 0.0079 inches	0.1mm / 0.0039 inches	EcoBoost engines are highly sensitive to compression changes, so skimming should be minimised.
Kia Sportage	1.6L T-GDi	0.3mm / 0.0118 inches	0.15mm / 0.0059 inches	Higher tolerance due to turbocharging. Check the gasket type before skimming.
Nissan Qashqai	1.3L DIG-T	0.2mm / 0.0079 inches	0.1mm / 0.0039 inches	Small allowances due to the compact engine design.
Volkswagen Golf	1.5L TSI EVO	0.2mm / 0.0079 inches	0.1mm / 0.0039 inches	Ensure even skimming to maintain combustion chamber shape.
Nissan Juke	1.0L DIG-T	0.25mm / 0.0098 inches	0.15mm / 0.0059 inches	Similar to Qashqai, care must be taken with turbo models.
Audi A3	2.0L TFSI	0.25mm / 0.0098 inches	0.12mm / 0.0047 inches	Performance-oriented, so tolerances are tighter.
MG HS	1.5L Turbo	0.3mm / 0.0118 inches	0.15mm / 0.0059 inches	Relatively high tolerance for a small displacement turbo engine.
Hyundai Tucson	1.6L T-GDi	0.3mm / 0.0118 inches	0.15mm / 0.0059 inches	Similar to Kia Sportage, these engines can tolerate more skimming.
Peugeot 208	1.2L PureTech	0.2mm / 0.0079 inches	0.1mm / 0.0039 inches	Engine’s compact design requires careful skimming.
Vauxhall Corsa	1.2L Turbo	0.2mm / 0.0079 inches	0.1mm / 0.0039 inches	Limited skimming allowances due to small engine size.

Post Cylinder Head & Engine block Inspections

While the engine block and cylinder head are at the heart of operations, their counterparts are also equally as important in the overall healthy running of the engine.

In fact, even a slight deficiency in any of these parts can heavily impact the engines overall ability to perform. To prevent this, each counterpart must be examined with the same attention to detail given to the cylinder head and engine block.

A List Of additional Inspections To Carry Out

The following sections contain two lists of additional inspections that should be made after the cylinder head and engine block have been checked.

The tools you will need include:

• Feeler gauge
• Micrometer
• Dial bore gauge
• Straightedge
• Torque wrench
• Compressed air (if possible)

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Inspecting The Piston, Skirt, Con-rod & Rings

The following section contains checks which are specific to the piston, wrist ping, connecting rod and piston rings:

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Engine Assembly

Reassembling an engine requires careful planning, meticulous preparation, and a skilful execution. But even with planning every step of the way, there are still unforeseen challenges that can creep up and throw a spanner in the works. 

To avoid this, I use the piston removal checklist which is helpful in reducing the chances of error.

Preparing the Engine For re Assembly

Engine preparation consists of three parts: Cleaning the engines components, lubricating the necessary, and honing the cylinder bores. 

How To Hone cylinder bores

The key benefits of honing the cylinder bores is to assist in correctly seating the piston rings, and maintain the engines lubrication during operation. This achieved by using the combination of a drill and honing tool to ‘hone’ a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls.

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Tools that you’ll need: 

• A hand drill 
• 3x clean rags 
• A cylinder honing tool (also known as a glaze breaker or flex-hone) with 220-320 grit stones for cast iron piston rings (or 400-600 grit stones when replacing moly or chrome rings) 
• Automatic transmission oil (½ cup i.e., just enough for wiping inside cylinders) 
• Brake cleaner or engine cleaning solution (to clean inside cylinder bores) 

Honing the cylinders is simple, but requires a steady hand: 

Step 1 

Wipe clean and dirt or debris from each of the cylinder bores using a clean rag and some brake cleaner. 

Step 2 

Use a clean rag and automatic transmission oil to wipe inside and lubricate the cylinder bores.  

Step 3 

Attach the honing tool to the drill. Select slow speed on the drill. Then insert carefully insert the head of the honing tool (with the drill NOT moving) into the first cylinder bore.

Step 4 

Begin operating the drill at a slow and steady speed while raising and lowering the honing tool in a single sweep. Do not exceed 15 seconds per period before inspecting. Don’t over hone as too much can end up boring out the cylinder to a larger diameter.  

@the_garage_goblin

DIY Engine Cylinder Honing at Home (Part 2) #engine #car #cars #cartok

♬ original sound – GarageGoblin – Garage Goblin

The desired 30 to 45 degree angle desired cross hatch pattern can be seen in the image below. 

Step 5 

Once the honing process is complete, use a clean rag soaked in solvent or brake cleaner to wipe down and leftover metal debris in the bore.

This step is crucial for ensuring that the piston rings can correctly be reseated, and that the cylinder bore is free leftover unwanted metal particles.

Step 6 

Recheck the cylinder bores using a dial bore gauge and Micrometer to verify that the diameter of each cylinder bore is still within manufacturer’s specifications

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Filing the Piston Rings To The Correct End Ring Gap

This step cannot be skipped and MUST be completed before re installing the pistons.

This stage has very little room for error. As the entire success or failure of this repair depends on getting this right. So it’s important that you meticulously follow each of the following steps.

We’ll begin with a filing down a few of the old piston rings as a practise exercise, and then move onto filing the new set of rings for final fitment.

Make sure to have the (already calculated) target end gap sizes to hand, before moving on.

You will need the following in this section:

• All the old piston rings (intact please)
• Piston Ring Grinding Tool
• Small hand file 
• Feeler Gauge 
• Empty Engine Bores (not containing pistons)  
• A piston with no rings attached (i.e., an empty piston) 

The practice run

Begin by using your hands to insert an old piston ring about half an inch down into cylinder bore number one, making sure to position the ring perfectly horizontal.

Next, use an upside down (i.e., head facing down) piston head to push the ring about one inch down into the bore.

This process is called, “squaring the piston ring”. Which is used to emulate the position that the ring will be in, when installed for the final time. Doing so, enables us to accurately calculate the ring end gap, before it’s actually fitted to the piston, and inserted to the bore.

There are piston ring squaring tools that are specially made for this, but I do not believe that they’re necessary.

Once you have completed this process, set aside the piston, and pickup the feeler gauge, as its time to begin measuring.

@diddlyscustoms

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♬ original sound – Diddly

Measuring A Piston Rings end gap – With A Feeler Gauge

Start by taking the thinnest blade of the feeler gauge, then insert it to the end gap of the piston ring placed in the bore. Attempt to slide the blade in an up and down motion while checking if it moves freely, or has resistance.

Assessing the results

Here’s how to evaluate and act based on the results of the feeler gauge test. The two tables in the following section each handles a different scenario.

1. The first scenario is when you are testing with a blade that is smaller in size than the size of the target end gap.
2. The second scenario is when you are testing with a blade that is equal in size to the size of the target end gap.

But before this, you’ll first need to know how to adjust the size of the end gap in a piston ring.

Increasing the size of a piston rings end gap – with a grinding tool

This step should be only be carried out if you deem the end gap of a piston ring to be smaller than the target end gap size.

1. Place the piston ring onto grinding tool while ensuring that the grinding disc sits directly between the gap in the piston ring
2. Use your thumb and index finger to push the ring against the dowel pins fitted to the tool 
3. Push the side of the ring you are trying to grind against the disc, then begin turning via the tools handle for five full revolutions
4. Use a hand file to remove the sharp edges (i.e., burr) of the end gap
5. Test fit the ring in the target cylinder, measure with feeler gauge, then repeat this process and adjust if necessary until the target size is achieved in the piston ring

Scenario 1: Measuring with a blade size that’s smaller than the target end gap size

Result	Reason	Action
Blade moves freely through the gap	The gap is larger than the size of the blade.	Select a larger blade, then reassess the gap.
Blade fits with slight resistance	The gap is slightly larger than the size of the blade, but smaller than the target gap.	Select a blade closer to the target size, then reassess
Blade has excessive resistance or bends	The gap is smaller than the size of the blade.	File the piston ring slightly and reassess the gap.
Blade doesn’t fit into the gap	The gap is smaller than the size of the blade.	File the piston ring and reassess the gap.

Scenario 2: Measuring with a blade size that’s equal to the target end gap size

Result	Reason	Action
Blade fits perfectly with slight drag	The gap is equal to the target size.	No further adjustment needed; gap is correct.
Blade has slight resistance	The gap is very close to the target size.	Consider minor adjustments if needed.
Blade bends or has excessive resistance	The gap is smaller than the target size.	File the piston ring slightly and reassess the gap.
Blade doesn’t fit into the gap	The gap is smaller than the target size.	File the piston ring and reassess the gap.

By now you should have a sense of what using a feeler gauge feels like (no pun intended).

So it’s time to get the training wheels off, set aside the old piston rings, and begin setting the correct end gap in each of the new rings.

Once all the end gaps have been set, it’s time to begin fitment.

Installing New Piston Rings 

This is an easy, and simple process to follow, so don’t complicate it. That being said, it still requires a careful and steady hand to avoid breaking any of the rings upon fitment.

For this reason, I would recommend to begin by test fitting the old set of rings on the piston, until you are confident enough, in fitting, and removing them, without breakage.

The particular process to follow when assembling the rings is to start with bottom ring (oil control ring) first, move onto the middle ring, second, and thirdly end with the top ring. On a standard three ring piston.

However, if you find that your piston contains more than three rings, then continue to follow the same bottom up approach, making sure to start at the bottom, and gradually work your way up. Regardless of the number of rings that the piston has.

Offsetting The Piston Rings (To prevent Engine blow-by)

Prior to installing, you must ensure that each end gaps in the piston rings is offset (i.e., staggered) from one another, around the circumference of the piston.

Setting up the rings in this way will help the engine to maintain compression, reduce blow-by, and reduce the chances of oil making its way from the crankcase into the combustion chamber.

A quick FAQ is: Is there a possibility that the rings can revert back to an ‘incorrect position’, when the engine is operating?

As, what would be the point in setting, or offsetting the rings in particular positions, when they can simply revert back to a position they shouldn’t be in.

The short answer is, yes!

When the engine is operating, it is certainly possible for the rings to rotate, and in turn, realign in a position they shouldn’t be in.

However, when we offset the end gaps of the the rings, we heavily “reduce the chances” of realignment. Which is the exact reason why engines have been built this way for a very long time.

“If something isn’t broken, then don’t fix it”. I.e., if the method works, then why change it?

Check the vehicles service repair manual to find exact information for offsetting piston rings.

Or if not, then you can follow this general guideline: 

• Top ring gap: Position at 10 o’clock.
• Second ring gap: Position at 2 o’clock.
• Oil ring gaps: Position at 6 o’clock and stagger the gaps of the upper and lower rails.

Once you have fully “dressed” the pistons , it’s time to rehouse them in the engine.

Reinstalling The Pistons (in 7 Steps)

Tools you’ll need to get started: 

• Rubber handle of a hammer works fine
• Piston ring compression tool 
• Engine Assembly lubricant 
• Torque wrench (that goes up to the desired torque required for pistons) 

Step 1

Place the piston ring compression tool around the piston head and tighten until the rings are completely compressed into the grooves

Step 2 

Remove the connecting rod end cap and lubricate the bearings with assembly lube. Using your hands to apply the engine lube is just fine.

Step 3 

Turn the crankshaft so that the journal for the particular piston bore you are working with is at its lowest point to the ground (i.e., bottom dead centre)

Step 4 

Lower the connecting rod of the piston into the cylinder bore until the compression tool meets the surface area of the engine block.

Step 5 

Use the rubber handle to gently knock the piston down about half an inch.

Please note: If th,e piston doesn’t drop in with light amount of force, then immediately stop, remove the piston and restart this entire process.

On the other hand, if the piston head is knocked in but cannot go all the way, then assess the connecting rod and crankshaft area from underneath the engine to identify potential see if there is an issue.

Step 6 

Once the piston has been correctly seated, fit the connecting rods big end end cap back to the connecting rod while making sure that the bearings remain in place, then hand tighten the bolts 

Step 7 

Ensure both the connecting rods bolts are hand tight, then manually turn the crankshaft to ensure the engine freely turns with the piston and rings fitted. 

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A QUICK COFFEE BREAK ☕

I’m genuinely also taking a coffee break at this point. But not a break from carrying out the repair. Instead, the break that I’m taking is from writing this post. Trust me, it’s not easy.

Give yourself a pat on the back, as persevering this far is not for the faint hearted. You have likely learned more in this rebuild than you have ever learned in your lifetime about engines.  

Grab a coffee, have a quick sit down, then return here to continue. 

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Installing the Oil pump 

The rest of this rebuild should honestly be a smooth sail from here. But don’t get ahead of yourself, as thats where mistakes are made. Instead, take your time, remain focused, and take breaks where necessary. As we are close, but not quiet all the way there, just yet. 

Installing the oil pump is essentially doing what you did in reverse to remove it.

The only difference here, is that you should first hand tighten each bolt. Then finally torque them down to the correct specifications, set by the manufacturer.

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Installing A New Head Gasket

Please note: Some head gaskets will require the addition of liquid gasket, while others may not. Refer to the vehicles service manual for specific instructions.

A general guideline to follow when fitting a new head gasket is: 

Step 1 

Ensure the surface area of the engine block is clean 

Step 2 

Identify the Top and Bottom of the Gasket: Ensure the gasket is position the correct way up (usually this is marked on the gasket) 

Step 3 

Align the Dowels or Locating Pins: The small pins on the engine block that likely caused the most difficulty when removing the gasket. You must line the gasket back up with these. 

Step 4 

Check the Alignment: Ensure that all holes in the gasket align with all passages in the engine block. If they don’t, then double check that you have the right gasket.   

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Installing The Cylinder Head

Now the pistons and gasket have been installed, it’s time to complete the engine. 

Tools you’ll need: 

• Rubber gloves (to lift the cylinder head) 
• Torque wrench (for head bolts and bolts in the camshaft journal caps) 
• Liquid marker pen (mechanics pen to mark head bolts)

Install the cylinder head by carrying out the the following step: 

Step 1 

Lower the cylinder head onto the head gasket ensuring the dowel pins of the engine block are correctly re-inserted to the cylinder head. 

Once you’re happy with how the cylinder head is positioned. 

Step 2 

Insert the NEW cylinder head bolts by hand. No tools required. Start by dropping them into their respective holes while making sure that all bolts drop down to the same height.

If there are any discrepancies, then remove the bolt and inspect the respective hole.

Step 3 

Hand tighten all of the bolts to ensure they are all correctly inserted and turn relatively easy. 

Step 4 

Follow the manufacturers tightening sequence to torque the head bolts to the correct spec in the specific sequence (i.e., order) they have set. 

Please note: you must follow this sequence as not doing so can result in warping the cylinder head. The sequence will typically start from the centre bolts, then work its way outward in a spiral or crisscross pattern.

Step 5 

Mark each bolt with a line to 12 o’clock to reference their positions. The line can be drawn from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock. 

Step 6

Follow the last stage of tightening set by the manufacturer to stretch the head bolts. This is usually instructed to turn at an angle such as 90 degrees, 180 or 270. 

Always turn in 90 degree passes, meaning it would require 3 passes to achieve a 270 degree turn. This ensures you can safely turn without breaking bolts, and easily identify unusual tension in any of the bolts. 

Installing the rocker arms 

Place the rocker arms back into their positions. You can cross reference these positions with a diagram of your engine, or a video where the same engine is being repaired. 

Reinserting the camshafts 

Carefully lower each camshaft back into their positions ensuring that each of the timing marks on the camshaft gears line up with one another if required. 

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Installing A New Timing Chain Or Belt Kit 

After the piston, piston rings, and piston ring end gaps, the timing chain assembly is the next most vital part of the rebuild. In short, getting this wrong can result in catastrophic engine failure.

A correctly set timing chain ensures that the valves and pistons will operate without crashing into one another.

Getting this wrong equals big problems. But, by following this guide, you have nothing to worry about. 

Tools you’ll need 

• A Torque wrench
• A set of Socket and wrenches
• Flathead screwdriver 
• Liquid pen (mechanics pen) 
• Engine assembly lube
• Engine-specific: Camshaft locking tool 

Step 1 

Set piston number one, of cylinder number one to top dead centre (i.e., TDC)

Step 2 

Install the timing chains (or belts) guides back into their respective positions, on the engine block.

Some engines have an additional chain to control the timing of the oil pump. Make sure to install this first if required.

Lastly, tighten all bolts to the recommended specification.

Step 3 

Install the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, and lock the camshafts in position if required for your engine type. Using a camshaft locking tool. 

Step 4 

Fit the timing chain to the camshaft and crankshaft gears, making sure that the coloured links on the chain correctly align with the markings on each of the gears.

Step 5 

Install the remaining guides and timing chain (or belt) tensioner, then torque the bolts to the correct spec. Some tensioners must be primed with oil before installation.

Step 6 

Release the chain tensioner to apply tension to the timing chain (or belt).

Step 7 

Rotate the crankshaft with a ratchet for two full revolutions. Then check for any issues in alignment of the timing marks. Repeat this process three more times for absolute confirmation.

If the timing is out, re-lock the tensioner, remove the chain (or belt), and repeat this process until the timing marks realign after turning the crankshaft.

Step 8 

Install the timing cover assembly. And torque down each of the bolts in accordance with the engines specifications, set by the manufacturer.

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Assembling The Remaining Engine Components

Finally, install the oil sump, wiring loom, spark plugs or glow plugs, rocker cover (i.e., valve cover), fuel injectors, coolant pipes, turbo, and everything else in between.

Remember to take your time and remain focused.

The rocker cover may require the use of gasket sealer in addition to the rubber gasket. 

Reinstalling turbo pipes can be a little confusing , so if necessary, refer to a diagram for assistance.

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Final steps (Before Starting The Engine)

It’s time to double check all your work has been carried out correctly. 

Step 1: Double check your work 

Double check all tightening torques, bolts, nuts, electrical connections. Everything. You can never over check, so check till your heart’s content.

Step 2: Refill all necessary fluids

This includes engine oil, coolant, and transmission fluid. Ensure the correct types and amounts are used in accordance with manufacturers specifications.

Step 3: Prime the Oil System

Remove the spark plugs (or glow plugs and fuel injector electrical connectors), then crank the engine for 10-15 seconds. This will allow the oil pump to circulate oil around the engine, without actually causing the engine to start.   

Listen for unusual noises. Such as knocking, grinding or leaking. doing so will enable you to identify issues that require inspection. Visually check for leaks. In coolant, oil, and fuel.

Then inspect the cylinder head, oil pan, and intake manifold to make sure everything is as it should be.

Step 4: Reconnect All remaining components

Finally, reinstall the fuel injectors and spark plugs (or glow plugs). 

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Post Repair Checks & Initial Engine Startup 

If everything is reattached, reconnected, and primed, then it’s time to start the engine. 

Have realistic expectations. On the first startup, there will be lots of smoke. There may be some chugging. It make take a few tries. You may need to recheck you’re work.

Let’s go.

Step 1: Starting The Engine  

Give the engine 2 – 3 cranks for 10 – 15 seconds per crank, to start the engine. 

If the engine does not start, then rest the engine for for 2 minutes, then repeat the first step. Excessive engine cranking without rest will kill the starter motor. 

If the engine doesn’t start then do the following. Check the battery is charged (90% of non-start situations is this). If battery is charged, then check fuel system. If fuel system looks good, then check spark plugs. If spark plugs are good, then check air flow. Also check the fuel level.

Once you have fuel, spark and air. Or just fuel and air on a diesel, the engine should start.

Note that, if you’re working on a salvage car, then it could be something else like an immobiliser or blown fuse situation.

Step 2: Listen For Unusual Sounds 

regardless of if the engine has started, yet! It’s now a good time to check all the pipes and underneath the car for leaks. Listen for unusual sounds such as knocking or grinding when cranking.

Any funny business. Shut down, and investigate.

Step 3: Checks To make with the engine running 

HOORAY! You made it. Well done. The engine is running.

Double check everything there is to check. To begin the brea-in process, allow to idle for 20 -30 minutes.

while this is going on, get that bonnet (i.e., hood) up and get checking.

You should:

• Check for leaks
• Check that the coolant is not bubbling (plus engine temperature gauge in car)
• Check if the in-car heating is working
• Check for leaks
• Check for smells
• Check for smoke
• Listen for misfiring (or a rough running engine)
• Check, Check and guess what. Check again!

Once you’re confident that the engine is running right. Then it’s time to head out for a test run. 

Step 4: Take it for a Spin 

Drive the car for 2 miles to continue the break in process. Continue to keep checking for unusual sounds, smells and imbalances.

Ensure to vary the engine’s RPMs (rev from 1 to 5 thousand RPM) without putting the engine under excessive load. I.e., going uphill, or something else of the sort.

If everything is good, which it should be, then well done! You’re work here is done.

Step 5: Driving The First 50 Miles 

The first 50 mile should be taken a little easy to continue the engine break in process. 

Drive the car for a further 50 miles, then change the oil. This will remove the leftover loose debris and metal particles from the break-in process.

Make further checks as you did before. If everything seems good. Enjoy!

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How to Prolong The Life Of A Cars Piston Rings

Oil in an engine is like the blood of a human body. It’s absolutely necessary, and without it, there is no life. Coolant is also just most important. Make sure its always topped up, not leaking, and correctly suited for the engine that it’s being used in.

Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes on each startup, and additionally, to warm down for a 3 minutes before shutdown.

Use the best oils that money can buy. And always opt for synthetic oils, as they provide better oil flow at lower temperatures, to reduce friction, and increase longevity.

Conclusion

What a beast this was to write. I am yet to find a post on the internet that covers this topic as thoroughly as this. Hours and hours have gone into this and will continue to go into this to make sure it remains the most helpful guide on the internet for replacing a cars piston rings.

If this guide has helped you in any way, then return the favour, and give it a share. 

But if you’re keen to keep reading, then check out the rest of our site for more.